Sea Country Homes (return home)

Top 10 Mistakes

  1. Alteration of Finished Grades.
    Alteration of finished grades by the Homeowner or an aftermarket contractor results in some of the most costly claims made in the construction defect arena. Unlike a condominium or planned unit developments where the Builder customarily installs the walkways, patios, landscaping, and drainage systems (and thus may become liable for their performance), a single family residence is often delivered without any of these items except a driveway. At a very minimum, the Building Code requires that the house be delivered to the Homeowner with the surrounding bare lot sloped away from the house at a 2% slope. Several cities and counties in California require slopes greater than 2%. A slight V-shaped impression is cut in the lot, called a swale. Rainwater is intended to flow away from the house, to the swale, and then eventually to the street or some other approved storm water collection system. Unfortunately, the Homeowner or an after market contractor will often pour the sidewalks and patios directly on top of the finished grade thus altering the water flow by trapping it between the walkway and the house. Swimming pool contractors have been known to set their decks and coping too high, causing water to flow back toward the house. Often, the net effect of altering the storm water flow around the house causes it to seep under the foundation. Many California soils that are high in clay content will not permit water to readily pass through. This means that the wet soil can swell (expand) to up to 30% of its dry volume. The swelling soil actually lifts the house foundation upward and can cause extensive interior and exterior damage.
  2. Concrete Patio Poured Too High.
    In addition to being poured with a 2% slope, a concrete patio or deck should be poured at least two inches below door thresholds or the stucco weep screed (a weep screed is the metal band at the bottom of the stucco just above the ground). The weep screed allows water that may be behind the stucco to "weep" out and run down the foundation. Pouring the patio or deck too high can result in rainwater being drawn back up into the stucco or behind the siding. As a result, decay of the structure may occur. This condition also provides an excellent route for termites to enter the building. Since the finished grade should be maintained 6 inches below the house slab, any installed concrete work should not trap water against the foundation. In addition, planters should not be allowed to fill above the required grade.
  3. Deck Trellis, Sunscreen, or Lanai Structure Attached Improperly.
    This description includes other structures that are connected to the house. There are many proper ways to create a watertight connection between the deck trellis or the lanai structure and the house. Unfortunately, these "add on structures" are often just nailed or bolted directly to the outside wall of the house. Inevitably, rainwater finds its way into the penetrations and the dryrot process begins. It is critical that the ledger (the board that is placed up against the side of the house) be either flashed with a metal flashing or caulked in an industry approved manner. If bolts are used to attach the ledger board to the house, the boltholes should be filled with caulk. Note: Nearly all local governments require a building permit to construct a trellis or lanai that is attached to the house. A trellis or lanai is considered a structure that could fall down and cause injury; hence a building permit is usually required. Construction of a deck or patio typically does not require a building permit, unless it is 30 inches or more off the ground.
  4. Irrigation Sprinkler Heads Spray Against the House.
    Irrigation sprinkler heads that spray against the wood siding, masonry, or stucco walls of a house can lead to rotted walls and leaching of the color from the stucco. Exterior walls are not constructed to withstand the rigors of constant exposure to landscape irrigation. Irrigation water that ponds at the base of a foundation can lead to upward movement of the foundation. It is important that all irrigation spray be directed away from the house rather than towards the house. Spray heads should be checked regularly during the irrigation season to make sure that they have not become twisted and point toward the house. It is also important to recognize that as landscaping grows, spray heads should be raised, relocated, or in some cases eliminated, to keep moisture away from the side of the house. Particularly vulnerable to irrigation spray are posts from overhead decks that have shrubbery growing closely around them.
  5. Bathroom and Laundry Vent Fans Disconnected or Unused.
    Bathrooms and laundries are areas of high humidity. Bathroom and laundry fans should never be disconnected (even though the noise may bother the occupant), and the fan should always be turned on during use. Failure to use the vent fans can result in water vapor getting into the drywall, the electrical outlets and even the framing members. Over time, mold, mildew and fungi may grow in these areas. Water vapor that condenses on walls and windows can eventually find its way into the structure of the house and weaken the structure through dryrot. Rooms where humidifiers are used should also be well ventilated.
  6. Walking on the Roof.
    A Homeowner should never walk on his or her roof. Not only can walking on the roof be a slip and fall hazard, but untrained persons are likely to break the roof covering and cause roof leaks. Most houses built today have one of three types of roof covers: concrete or clay tile, wood shakes or shingles, or composition shingles. A few houses today are constructed with "flat" roofs, sometimes known as built up roofs. Cleaning of gutters should be done from a ladder and not by standing on the roof. If an object is thrown on the roof, such as a child's toy, it should be retrieved using a ladder and a telescoping pole rather than by walking on the roof. Most residential warranties exclude damage resulting from unauthorized persons walking on roofs.
  7. Upper Cabinets Overloaded.
    While lower cabinets rest on the floor, upper cabinets are hung from a wall using screws or nails. By stacking heavy dishes and glassware in upper cabinets, a Homeowner can load the cabinet beyond its capacity. This can result in sagging shelves, or worse yet, detachment of the cabinet from the wall. Heavy china and cookware should always be placed in the lower cabinets. In a related item, cabinet drawers are often overloaded and then pulled out too far. This action results in the plastic guide being snapped off at the back of the cabinet drawer.
  8. Floor System Overloaded.
    Builders have a choice of many wooden floor systems to install in their homes. Regardless of system chosen, all systems must meet the minimum requirements for floor deflection (up and down movement) that are set forth in the Building Code. Many homeowners are surprised to learn the Building Code permits more deflection than that which they may be comfortable. Household items such as waterbeds, pool tables, and weight lifting equipment can cause significant floor deflection, although the house was built in accordance with the Code. Many houses have a concrete slab first floor and a wooden second floor. It is best to keep heavy items on the first floor, if possible, particularly if the first floor is a concrete slab.
  9. Storage of Household Goods on the Garage and Attic Trusses.
    The garage and attic trusses are designed to support the weight of the roof and ceiling and not the weight of anything else. Unfortunately, many Homeowners view the space in the attic and above the garage ceiling as additional space for storage. Storing household goods in these areas can result in sagging of the roof or possible collapse of the roof. If a Homeowner wishes to use this space for storage, he or she should consult with a structural engineer to determine if additional reinforcement is necessary.
  10. Tinting of Dual Pane Windows.
    Many new homes in California are constructed with dual pane windows (also known as double-glazed windows and insulating windows). The two panes of glass are separated by a spacer up to 5/8 inch in thickness. The air space between the dual panes is "dead air". This area is so tightly sealed that air can neither enter nor leave the space. By placing a tinting film on the inside of the window, the sun's rays are reflected back into the dead air space. The temperature in this space can become so hot that it may cause the "rubber-like" seal to rupture, and the insulating value of the window is lost. Windows with broken or ruptured seals are easy to identify: they have moisture between the panes of glass. Homeowners should never tint a dual pane window on the inside unless it is specifically approved by the window manufacturer.